Logan 1965

1965 South Ridge (Hummingbird Ridge), Yukon Territory, Canada

This is the story of daily happenings on the first ascent of Mount Logan’s Hummingbird Ridge in the summer of 1965.  Located in Canada’s Yukon Territory, Logan is the second-highest peak in North America.  The climb described is notable partly in the technical demands, which —although not extreme—were unrelenting, requiring eight camps and multiple carries over a 28-day period.  Also remarkable is the fact that the climb has not been repeated in the subsequent four-plus decades; this has lent a measure of notoriety to the route.

The account appears here almost verbatim, but with the inclusion of several photos and the addition of chapter breakdowns and explanatory notes.

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